Any electricians that can give some advice please? I updated the receptacles in a new home. The kitchen gfci’s were 20amp but multiple Home Depot employees told me I could use 15amp and it wouldn’t make a difference. So I used the 15amp since they were cheaper and was told it didn’t matter. (I did leave one 20amp gfci as is because it was hidden behind a toaster so I didn’t care it wasn’t new looking. The rest were changed to 15amp gfci’s. Now I’ve plugged a coffee maker into one of the new 15amp gfci’s and both kitchen light fixtures will flicker when the coffee maker is powered on. A tester shows the receptacle as being open ground. Not sure what this means and how to fix? I did put the 20amp gfci back in its place and it was still showing as open ground with lights flickering with coffee maker. Thank you
Safia Faseehuddin is there a black wire in that box. Did the light flicker with the old gfi with the toaster When you turn you toaster on it’s pulling a lot of current, so it flickers the light. Try plugging in something that draws less current and see if it does the same. The light shouldn’t flicker. I don’t understand why you don’t have a ground wire in a home that was built 15 years ago.
Is that a metal box? If so try and connect a wire to it and then to the ground screw. Sometimes the ground wire is connected in the back of the outside box, but you can’t see it. (That is what they did years ago) is there anyway that you can run a ground wire to the box if it’s not attached to the back of the box. ( Home Depot told you the wrong information. 20A wire for 20A GFI. You did the right thing by changing it back.
My daughter and husband bought a house that I am working on doing updates. The house is not grounded correctly either with grounds. I am going to fish ground wires to all of the outlet boxes along with added outlets. 2 in each room today is not enough. The bathroom I already wired correctly as I added new outlets. All20A gfi’s. When their ac kicked on theirlights flickered. They pull a lot of current. They only have a 100Amp service panel. I am updating the service to 200Amp. Do you only have a 100Amp service panel too? It’s not enough for today
You need to check your electrical code. Our kitchen outlets are protected by a 20A breaker. Is your wiring tight?
You probably should of stayed with 20amp it’s usually code and they are most likely on a 20 amp breaker. Also I agree with a previous poster you have a loose wire probable multiple. A open ground means your ground wire doesn’t have a good connection back to the panel.
You are getting open ground because you don’t have a ground connected to gfci….open back up and see if there is a ground wire screwed into the terminal on the back of the box
After reading thru comments. Since you do not have a ground wire in this box – the tester is correct. Only way to fix that is run a ground.
Since it is a GFCI you are ok. The flickering is a loose wire, or possibly a small cutvin the shielding. Go look at both neutral and hot wire very close.
My Canadian friend Jim Noseworthy should be around. In our jurisdiction if you have an old 2 wire ungrounded system a GFCI / AFCI is required in new installations. These circuit interrupters will offer protection without a ground. I just finished a 1920’s kitchen with this same situation.
You need the ground wire for sure. The GFI device measures ground fault between ground wire and source. Also need to verify solid connections from your home run all the way to your device. That picture looks way off. That should be a black and a white wire with a bare ground.
20 amp breakers should have #12 conductor and 20 amp devices connected. Rating consistency is usually required in most circumstances such as this.
As for the flickering lights, that’s something difficult to troubleshoot over the phone. Could be anything from pot connections to coincidence. Are the bulbs LED? Many LED bulbs must accept disturbance (which is visible as a flicker). Try changing the bulbs?